Italian 101

I had been avoiding this theme for some time now; mostly because it seems so commonplace, broad, and non-exotic.  With all of the tomatoes, eggplant, and summer squash in our garden, though, it didn't make sense to wait any longer.  In the end, it was a very tasty and fun several weeks of cooking and eating.

Recipe sources:

1. David Downie's "Cooking the Roman way:  Authentic recipes from the home cooks and trattorias of Rome" -- my favorite book of the bunch
2. Lidia Bastianich's "Lidia's Italy" -- good but focused on northern Italy, especially Northeast Italy
3. Marcela Hazen's "Essentials of classic Italian cooking" -- the most comprehensive of these cookbooks; unfortunately, the recipe names do not include the Italian translation
4. Biba Caggiano's "Trattoria cooking"
5. Clarissa Hyman's "Cucina Siciliana"

See this album for the recipes and photos of all of the dishes made, which I will list out here also.  The (*) symbol denotes some of my favorites:

• Primi (soups)
• * chickpea soup with porcini
• pasta and chickpea soup with rosemary and garlic
• minestrone alla Toscana (minestrone in the style of Tuscany)
• Primi (pasta)
• * linguine with clams
• * spaghetti alla amatriciana
• * pennette with cauliflower ragu
• pasta with eggplant, tomato and red chili
• spaghetti cacio e pepe (spaghetti with pepper and cheese)
• pennette with summer squash (zucchini, etc.) and ricotta
• * penne with cream sauce of ham (or prosciutto), peas, and peppers
• fresh tagliattelle with sauce of tomato and porcini
• Secondi (entrées)
• chicken cacciatore (pollo alla cacciatora)
• * coda alla vaccinara (Roman oxtail stew)
• braised pork chops with tomatoes, cream and porcini
• Contorni (vegetables and sides)
• * skillet fennel with capers
• broccoletti strascinati (boiled-sautéed broccoli rabe)
• panfried zucchini with vinegar and herbs
• * artichokes, Roman style (braised with garlic and mint)
• braised Swiss chard with cannellini beans
• gratin of artichokes
• Signor Corsi's spicy braised cabbage
• Miscellaneous
• * zucchini frittata with mint
• prosciutto with melon

General Principles:

• Primi (pasta)
• In general, stop cooking the pasta 1 minute before it reaches perfect "al dente" and finish cooking it once it has been tossed in with the sauce
• use at least 5 quarts of water to cook a standard 1 pound of dry pasta
• binders and lubricators for sauces:  diced or crushed tomato, olive oil, butter, animal fat (rendered from pancetta, etc.) cream, ricotta cheese, puréed vegetable ( e.g., roasted red pepper), pasta water, cheese ( especially Parmesan and pecorino Romano)
• cheeses should be stirred in at the very end, after pasta has been tossed with the sauce
• almost always serve grated cheese on the side
• fresh pasta is more common toward the north of Italy and dried more common toward the south
• Romans seem to be most fond of spaghetti and linguine and other long strands
• Contorni (vegetables and sides)
• Italians, especially towards Rome, love:  artichokes, fennel, broccoli (and broccoli rabe), and zucchini
• Perhaps the most common way of cooking vegetables like these is to braise or pan fry them in generous amounts of olive oil, possibly some vinegar or wine, some herbs like parsley or mint, some aromatics like garlic and onion, and maybe some red pepper

Some technical notes:

• Primi (pasta)
• linguine with clams
• used about 1.5 pounds of clams, which worked out well for 3 servings
• sauce needs salt despite no mention in the recipe
• reduced the pasta amount by 50% and the proportions seemed very nice
• didn't filter the clam juice (contrary to the recipe) and it seemed to be fine; was careful to pre-scrub the clamshells and change the soaking water several times
• was unable to perceive any hotness from the fresh chili pepper that I used (add more next time?)
• The basil is a fantastic touch
• spaghetti alla amatriciana
• fantastic; not nearly as greasy as I feared
• almost a "sweet" flavor from the guanchiale
• pennette with cauliflower ragu
• the kick from the red chili is important; don't skimp on it
• don't worry too much about cooking each of the cauliflower pieces to uniform doneness because it is nice when the sauce has some larger chunks amongst the small pieces that turn into a pulp
• pasta with eggplant, tomato and red chili
• the eggplant got overly soft during the frying process; in the sauce it almost had the same texture as the tomato -- not a good thing in my opinion
• spaghetti cacio e pepe (spaghetti with pepper and cheese)
• accidentally used a large amount of Parmesan instead of pecorino, which really doesn't have the strength of flavor needed for this simple dish
• the cheese ended up clumping terribly in the bowl and on the spoon
• would it be good to add back the pasta water after adding the cheese into the noodles?
• pennette with summer squash (zucchini, etc.) and ricotta
• used the cheaper of the 2 brands of ricotta cheese from Bianchini's ( with the built-in strainer in the tub); had to add much more water than specified (4 or 5 tablespoons)
• sauce needed salt-and-pepper despite no mention in the recipe
• used 50-50 mix of zucchini and pattypan, which worked well
• penne with cream sauce of ham (or prosciutto), peas, and peppers
• used 50-50 mix of peeled, chopped, sautéed red peppers and Trader Joe's jarred roasted, peeled peppers; the jarred ones seem to work well
• reduced the fat by roughly 1/3; was still sufficiently rich and good texture
• fresh tagliattelle with sauce of tomato and porcini
• used 50-50 mix of durum semolina and all-purpose flour
• used 2 eggs and 1 1/3 cup flour
• 2nd thinnest setting on pasta roller seemed best
• Secondi (entrées)
• chicken cacciatore (pollo alla cacciatora)
• I made the mistake of only Browning to a "brown" color instead of to a rich brown
• I used the expensive "Mary's pastured chicken" from Bianchini's market, which is supposedly truly free range 
• the meat was really not tender at all; I may have erred on the side of too short of cooking time.  Is the dark meat on the drumsticks supposed to be starting to fall off the bone?
• coda alla vaccinara (Roman oxtail stew)
• clove aroma in the sauce is fantastic
• the minced vegetables in the gravey are nice change of pace from the standard diced vegetables; it gives a more refined feel
• braised pork chops with tomatoes, cream and porcini
• used 1 inch chops instead of three-quarter inch chops
• cooked for about 45 minutes total
• the meat turned out tough and dry
• because the pan was fully covered instead of slightly ajar?
• Because I didn't flip the chops periodically?
• in any event, the sauce was fantastic
• Contorni (vegetables and sides)
• braised Swiss chard with cannellini beans
• be careful not to over cook the beans at all, otherwise they will partially disintegrate during the mixin with the other ingredients
• Signor Corsi's spicy braised cabbage
• adding some julienned carrots and sliced onion was a nice addition