Recently, I had the opportunity to work in a professional kitchen at
Creola Bistro, which focuses mostly on Creole and Cajun food. Inspired by all the good eats there, I decided to take a stab at making the New Orleans fare at home. The following books were my primary sources:
- Emeril Lagasse (EL), Emeril's A new New Orleans cooking", 1993
- Williams-Sonoma (WS), "New Orleans: Authentic recipes celebrating the foods of the world", 2005
- Paul Prudhomme (PP), "Chef Paul Prudhomme's Louisiana Kitchen", 1984
- Rima and Richard Collin (RRC), "The New Orleans Cookbook", 1975
- John Folse (JF), "The Evolution of Cajun and Creole Cuisine", 1989
All recipes for the dishes below are available in this
online album. Favorites are marked with a (*).
Dish List
- Beans, beans, beans...
- Tuesday's Red Bean Soup (EL)
- * White Beans, Rice and Smoked Sausage (RRC)
- Black-Eyed Peas with Meat and Rice (RRC; EL)
- Breads and baked goods
- * Iron Skillet Cornbread (WS)
- Buttermilk Biscuits (EL)
- * Jalapeno Corn Muffins (EL)
- Hush Puppies (JF)
- Pumpkin Soufflé (RRC)
- One pot dishes (quintessential Creole/Cajun)
- Seafood Filé Gumbo (PP)
- Gumbo Z'Herbes (WS)
- * Chicken Creole Style (JF)
- * Shrimp Etouffee (RRC)
- * Pork Sausage and Chicken Jambalaya (JF; RRC)
- Soups and sides
- Corn Maque Choux (WS)
- * Pumpkin Soup (EL)
- Stocks
- Basic Chicken Stock (EL; JF)
- Fish Stock (EL; JF)
Preparation notes
- Tuesday's Red Bean Soup (EL)
- I pulled the skin off of the smoked ham hawks before using them; I later asked chef Caba about this and he said it was unnecessary to do so
- the beans actually took about 80 minutes to cook through
- the Andouille sausage tasted dried out in the final product. Creola restaurant adds their sausage at the end of the cooking process to avoid this
- I didn't use any bacon, but instead doubled the amount of ham hock (which provided a nice amount of meat as well)
- White Beans, Rice and Smoked Sausage (RRC)
- this was a hearty and comforting dish with mild smokiness and full-bodied flavor
- The chunks of meat are strewn throughout but "light"
- I scaled the recipe down by 50% and a 3 quart pot worked well
- Instead of using a "seasoning ham" and "hambone", I used to ham hock stock and meat scraps from one half of a ham hock
- Sausage-wise, I used one andouille link
- Used Safeway-brand great northern beans. I like to disparage Safeway's quality, but it seemed to turn out okay.
- Black-Eyed Peas with Meat and Rice (RRC; EL)
- Iron Skillet Cornbread (WS)
- scale proportions by 2/3 and worked well in my 8 inch cast-iron skillet
- Seemed slightly under salted; try 1 teaspoon next time for the 2/3 scaling
- Since no sugar is added, honey or similar is needed as a garnish
- Buttermilk Biscuits (EL)
- review: decently flaky texture; housemate Mike not a fan of the slightly sour taste
- Instead of miniature biscuits, made 3 standard size biscuits (1/2" thick before cooking) with scraps left over
- Jalapeno Corn Muffins (EL)
- review: housemate Mike and I agree it was "excellent"; sweet, despite no added sugar; nice texture with contrasting chunks of corn and K. key/crumbly cornmeal
- The Chile Pepper lost most of its kick after cooking
- Hush Puppies (JF)
- review: decent, but a little dry inside and under salted; definitely requires butter, ketchup, etc. as garnish
- 1/2 teaspoon of salt added was insufficient despite the called-for "pinch"; try 3/4 teaspoon next time
- I yielded 12 small-medium balls from a 50% scaling of the proportions
- Some fresh jalapeno or ground chili powder would be nice
- if the batter is too liquidy, it is very hard to form and maintain the ball shapes
- Pumpkin Soufflé (RRC)
- I omitted the Cointreau out of necessity; the resulting flavor was overly mild
- scaled the recipe by 50% and it fit nicely into a single ramkin and 1.5 cup gratin dish
- because of the smaller portions, I checked the ramkin for deafness after 12 minutes (very unfair-done) and begin at 25 minutes (borderline under-done still)
- The soufflés rose from about 1 inch to 2 inches before falling back to 1 1/3" couple of minutes after coming out of oven; they achieved a medium-brown color on top
- Seafood Filé Gumbo (PP)
- I scaled down the oil to 1/3 the recipe amount for "nutrition" reasons
- omitted the Tabasco sauce because it was very piquant without
- the stock: simmered (pre-cooked) crab carcasses, 15 shrimp shells and homemade fish stock for 45 minutes; fantastic rich taste!
- the broth of the Gumbo turned out "particulate"; was this the file powder clumping together?
- Gumbo Z'Herbes (WS)
- for the greens, used kale, chard and some arugula
- salt level: close to 1 teaspoon / Qt
- Chicken Creole Style (JF)
- due to lack thereof, omitted the mushrooms, jalapeno, margarine, basil, and Louisiana Gold (used red pepper flakes instead)
- piquant level: mild, present but not distracting
- removed excess fat from dark meat beforehand, and removed about 50% of the skin; still, the final product was slightly oily
- simmered the boneless chicken breasts for 15-20 minutes and the dark meat for about one hour; perfectly cooked
- Shrimp Etouffee (RRC)
- scaled the amounts by 33% and the shrimp by 50%; yielded approximately 1.5 servings
- I used a homemade fish-shrimp stock instead of plain water
- reduced the cooking time for the shrimp from the suggested amount
- used the lower bound on the requested liquid quantity; final product still fairly runny
- Pork Sausage and Chicken Jambalaya (JF; RRC)
- Corn Maque Choux (WS)
- scaled down to 1/3; 2 servings
- Pumpkin Soup (EL)
- pre-roasted the pumpkin for one hour at 350°; then, sliced perpendicular to fibers and measured out 2.5 cups
- reduced cream to 1/2 cup
- reduced nut butter to 1/4 cup and used almond instead of peanut; diluted with liquid before adding to main pot
- added a dash of cayenne
- superb!
- Basic Chicken Stock (EL; JF)
- Fish Stock (EL; JF)
- my version took the common ingredients from these 2 recipes. I used:
- 2-3 pounds of fish heads and carcasses
- 2 onions
- 2 celery stalks
- 2 carrots
- one lemon, halved
- 4 bay leaves
- 6 sprigs of parsley
- 10 peppercorns
- 1 teaspoon of thyyme
- 3-4 quarts of water
- procedure: Blanch fish and rinse (only necessary if "off" smells present?); combine all ingredients in stockpot and bring to a boil; simmer for about 45 minutes; reduce for up to 2 hours; strain